In the heat of the day at San Juan Vineyards, as the afternoon sun ripens the grapes for the upcoming harvest, winemaker Chris Primus is on his knees on the cold, wet cellar floor fixing the busted pump he needs to prepare his 2012 red wines for bottling.
“If something breaks you have to fix it yourself,” Primus said. “There’s no wine supply store on the island or even within driving distance.”
The red wines have been aging in barrels for two years, getting softer and taking on oaky characteristics. They’ll be in bottle soon, just in time for the 2014 harvest to begin.
San Juan Vineyard grows two white varieties on their estate, Siegerrebe and Madeleine Angevine. They will be trucking in Pinot Gris and Riesling grapes from the Yakima Valley to crush this year, but won’t be purchasing any red grapes as the vineyard and winery is for sale and they have enough red wine in inventory to supply the demand for reds.
Siegerrebe is of German origins and makes for a smooth, full-bodied wine. Madeleine Angevine originates from the Loire Valley in France, this grape has characteristics similar to Sauvignon Blanc, with a low acidity, and does well growing in cool climates like San Juan Island.
Primus is especially excited about this year’s crop of Madeleine Angevine.
“We had a crop failure last year of the Madeleine,” he said. “There was record rain fall and horrible yellow jackets. We haven’t made any since 2012, which sold out in July.”
As the harvest approaches San Juan Vineyard is planning a harvest festival as part of Savor the San Juans, a month long celebration of the islands local bounties. Volunteers can come help with picking and taste the grapes that will soon become the 2014 estate wines. Picking will be followed by food, wine, door prizes and a complimentary bottle of wine once the process of bud break to bottle is complete next year.
“This is always a fun day,” said Yvonne Swanberg, owner of San Juan Vineyards. “It’s a great way to experience agriculture.”
The event is set for September 28 with harvesting of the Siegerrebe grapes.
2014 has just been an excellent year for growing grapes with an early spring and a warm summer. It’s going to be a successful harvest “as long as the rain holds off.”
Rain can be detrimental when it comes to harvesting wine grapes and it always seems to come at harvest time, when the grapes need the sun to reach optimal ripeness. Rain causes the grapes to take on water, dilutes flavors, and disrupts sugar and acidity levels. Primus checks the weather constantly and, if he can, harvests fruit before the rain falls. The weather so far has been ideal.
“The flavor is still too green and the acid is too high. They’re just not ready yet,” he said.
What sets Primus apart from other winemakers is that he also manages the vineyard. He came to San Juan Vineyard in 2006, bringing his experience and knowledge from small wine growing operations in Oregon. Between pruning, spraying, canopy making and other vineyard management projects, it’s been a busy year among the vines. Once the fruit starts coming in Primus anticipates 50 to 60 days of intensive labor, where its common to feel run down physically and mentally, all for the love of making wine.
“Its like graduation,” Primus said. “The grapes come in, they’ve done their work, and their potential is limitless.”
Lopez Island Vineyard tentative harvest party: Saturday, September 27, 9-1 p.m. Upick followed by food, wine and celebration.
“The grapes look fantastic so far this year. It’s been a great summer,” said Debbie Davidson, tasting room manager.